Originally I was thinking the blue spring kit might be giving to much pressure to stock injectors (for the black smoke) but now im thinking the internal on this new injector is leaking, bad internal springs? I really don’t have any other reasoning besides the injector being bad. Another thing is I’ve had slight black smoke when stepping on it since I replaced them all on the passenger side.
CYLINDER NUMBERS 6.0 POWERSTROKE CODE
It did throw the code I’m guessing when I was idling at a off ramp that was backed up. Though I got the code again, I have zero symptoms. Possibly just another bad new injector? I’m sick of digging into this thing over and over. After having them swap me for another new one it cleared that up.
CYLINDER NUMBERS 6.0 POWERSTROKE DRIVER
Possible just another bad new injector? I did have one on the driver side (new) faulty. Should fix the boot blowing off.Īlright, I was actually about to write that everything is good sure as **** I had a contribution code today.
There are other factors that can lead to inadequate voltage output, such as bad connections and/or vehicle battery issues, so if you suspect that the vehicle battery(s) could be bad, have them charged and load tested before trying this test.Īlso on your boots and pipes, clean both with brake clean, let dry, spray a coat of hair spray into the boot and onto the pipe. During cranking anything less than 46 volts would be considered a failing FICM power supply side. If you see the 48 volts, then have your friend crank the engine over and pay close attention to the meter. If you connect the negative lead of your multimeter to the battery negative and touch the positive lead to the screw closest to the driver’s side of the truck, then have your friend turn the key to the “on” position, the multimeter should read 48 volts or so (note: be VERY careful NOT to allow your leads to ground out to the case during testing) If this reading doesn’t display or you receive an error warning from the multimeter, you may need to change the voltage setting on the meter to allow it to display the 48 volt reading. If you remove this cover, you should see four smaller torx T15 screws. There is a small assembly cover on the top of the FICM, that is normally held down by two torx T20 screws.
If you find that your symptoms align with the hard starts and rough running cold, then the testing may be as simple as grabbing your multimeter and a friend to help. However some tests are fairly simple using hand tools and a multimeter. There are many ways to test the FICM and some of them require specialized diagnostic equipment.
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